Sabarimala or Mount Sabari - the holy abode of Lord Ayappa is situated in the
western coast of Kerala, the southern state of India. Sri Ayappa is considered
the third son of Lord Shiva, and the brethren of Ganesha and Murugan or Kartikeya.
The deity is steeped in legend and is unique to Hinduism, particularly to Kerala.
Story of the Birth of Ayappa
According to the ancient scriptures
or 'puranas' and folk songs of Kerala, Lord Ayappa was born out of Vishnu and
Shiva. As the legend goes, Lord Shiva was enamored by the charms of 'Mohini',
in which form Vishnu appeared at the time of churning the mythical Ocean of Milk
in order to allure the 'asuras'. Lord Shiva succumbed to the beauty of Mohini
and Hariharaputra - son of Vishnu (Hari) and Shiva (Hara) - was born out of the
union.
Pilgrimage and Austerities
Every pilgrim is supposed to
observe 41 days of continence or 'brahmacharya' starting with the 'Maladharan'
ceremony, when the prospective pilgrim adorns a garland of 'tulsi' (holy basil)
or 'rudraksha' beads. The pilgrim maintains austerity of mind, body and speech
and spends his time visiting temples, praying and attending religious discourses.
During the Mandalam period, mid-November to the end of December, the devotee wears
colored clothes like blue, black or ochre and grows a beard. The pilgrim virtually
leads the life of an ascetic and is expected to consume only 'satvic' food as
explained in the Bhagavad-Gita [17:8 - 10] and abstain from meat, intoxicating
drinks and tranquilizers.
Entry Restricted!
The temple is open
to all, except adolescent girls and young women, irrespective of caste and religion.
Small girls and women who have attained menopause are only allowed inside the
temple.
The Sacred Sack
The pilgrimage starts with the Kettunira
ceremony, the filling up of the sacred bundle (Irumudi), conducted either in one's
house or in a temple. Irumudi is a cloth bag of two compartments - front portion
meant for puja articles and offerings and the rear portion for storing the personal
requirements for the holy trek. The main offering to the Lord is the ghee-filled
coconut and the Irumudi is balanced on the head while trekking. Once the Kettunira
ceremony is over the pilgrim is ready for the pilgrimage.
All Roads Lead
to Sabarimala
There are three routes to Mount Sabari - the Erumeli route,
the Vandiperiyar route and the Chalakayam route. Erumeli route is the traditional
and the most arduous route of the three. During the peak season, buses ply up
to Erumeli. From there pilgrims have to trek a distance of over 60 km crossing
three formidable hills - the Azhutha, the Karimala and the Neelimala. The Vandiperiyar
route is much shorter - the distance to be covered on foot is 12.8 km through
dense woods. The third and the shortest route is via Chalakayam, which is near
river Pampa and the abode of Lord Ayappa is just 8 km away.
Atop
Mount Sabari
With the relentless chanting of "Swamiye Saranam Ayappa"
("Lord Ayappa Our Refuge"), pilgrims reach the holy forest abode of
Lord Ayappa atop Mount Sabari. One beholds the resplendent 'Patinettempadi',
18 golden steps that lead pilgrims to the sanctum sanctorum of Dharma Sasta. All
the steps are 5 to 6 feet long and 8 inches wide. The number 18 has great prominence
- first five steps signify the five 'indriyas' or senses - eyes, ears, nose, tongue
and skin; the next eight steps symbolizes eight ragas; the next three represents
three 'gunas' - 'satwa', 'rajas', 'thamas' and the last two steps denote 'vidya'
(knowledge) and 'avidya' (ignorance). By scaling all the 18 steps, one takes the
path of self-realization.
The majestic gold-covered flag staff towers over
the sanctum sanctorum or 'srikoil'. The 'srikoil' has a copper plated roof with
four golden finials or 'thazhikakkudam' shining at the top. Standing on the 18th
step, one is in front of the 'srikoil' and straight ahead the idol of Lord Ayappa
in all His glory.
Facing the Ayappa Idol
The beautiful idol
of Lord Ayappa is made of Panchaloha (a five metal alloy) and is about one and
a half feet high. Lord Ayappa sits in a meditative pose, with a band around the
folded legs and right hand in 'chinmudra' with the forefinger touching the thumb
indicating "Thou art that". Lord Ayappa grants refuge to His devotees
and protects them from all evils.
To the south of the main shrine is a
Ganesha idol and to the left are the idols of Subramanya and Goddess Mala. The
shrine of Mallikappurathamma Devi is 100 meters away from the 'srikoil'. One can
also find the shrine of Vavar, the Islamic confidant of Lord Ayappa.
End
of the Journey
The devotee, before entering the house, breaks a coconut
and lies prostrate before the family deity and takes down the garland, thus breaking
the continence. The pilgrimage is symbolic of the transformation of the individual
self or in other words, a journey from 'Jivatma' to 'Paramatma'.